betjili A Tapestry Of Memories: Remembering Crewel Art From Kashmir

Square Multi-Season Pieced Shawl, 1880s | Photo: Getty Images Square Multi-Season Pieced Shawl, 1880s | Photo: Getty Images

Sipping kehwa and cherishing the warmth of a Kashmiri hamam are my favourite moments to capture every winter. Warmth, food, fun, and laughter have always been my favourites; adding to their comfort, my grandmother's tales mark a significant part of it. Last evening, when the echoes of Asr were heard from all corners of the city, I could feel my grandmother's eyes completely soggy, and I could hear her sob. I couldn’t stop asking her the reason, to which she immediately responded with a smile and said, "Old memories are always pinching; one should never grow up and lose its childhood."

Later, I came to know that she became emotional because of the heirloom hand-work crewel curtains that were used in the hamam and belonged to her mother. "These curtains speak volumes about their history; my memories turned fresh, and as just yesterday, these have been bought," my grandmother said with an emotional grin. Being a fanatic since childhood, I couldn’t wait to hear the entire story, which she promised to narrate after offering the Asr namaz. Eagerly waiting for the same, I executed my religious obligation as well and sat beside her to travel down memory lane.

“I am so happy that you have cared for these curtains for so long and used them with elegance which gives me more joy. I remember my mother, on collecting my wedding trousseau had pre-ordered these curtains for me, purely handmade and with the most appealing jungle design, then by the young Kashmiri girls in "Karkhanas," she said, while recalling the art of crewel.

Can you tell me something more about its history? I asked with excitement to satisfy myself. As long as I remember, my father had told me that the designs used in crewel embroidery draw inspiration from not only the natural beauty of the Kashmir valley but also motifs of flowers, leaves, and birds, with jungle scenes being particularly popular. These designs are often created by artisans using their imagination and creativity to create intricate, exquisite patterns. I will introduce you to Ghulam Nabi‘s family, the one whose four generations are following the same art.

I couldn’t stop visiting his karkhana in the Fateh Kadal area of downtown, where his son, Fayaz Ahmed, was busy making a beautiful crewel cushion cover. As I stood near his door, he gently lifted his head and took his glasses off. Bewildered, he couldn’t understand the reason for a youngster being there.

Upon having a brief chat, while introducing myself, tears dropped from his eyes and he kissed the beautiful peacock eye while making the cushion cover. "It is my immense joy to tell you about the art of crewel, although no young generation bothers to make such efforts these days. I am very happy to see you here," he said in a mood of agreement.

Sitting beside the samovar with the brewing aroma of nun chai dominating his compact workspace, he started, "The art of crewel is a British gift to us, and the Angrez raaj had some advantages as well," he chuckled. "Let me tell you that embroidery, also known as zalakdozi embroidery, is a priceless craft that has been handed down through generations of needle workers. We have refined the art of crewel stitching throughout the years and continue to create exquisite, highly valued pieces of embroidery that are detailed and attractive. Approximately, the art dates back to the eleventh century, when the seventy-metre-long tapestry was created entirely by hand using crewel. By now, it is evident that the tale of crewel embroidery is a rather long one, but what’s interesting is how it followed a pathway to reach the hills of Kashmir."

While offering me a khos of nun chai, he continued imparting his knowledge. "We use a hooked needle, which is used to generate a chain stitch on fabric for the crewel embroidery technique. The wool of nearby sheep is often spun into a fine, delicate thread to provide the yarn needed for crewel needlework. Then, a variety of vivid hues, including red, green, blue, yellow, and black, are dyed onto this thread. We usually make it on 56-quarter-wide Dusoot cotton fabric manufactured locally in Kashmir. Fabric bolts may be 20 to 33 yards in length, although custom orders at times require longer yardages per bolt." The same was used by my father while weaving curtains for your grandmother. "I have heard that she was very possessive of her accurate designs," he said with a subtle laugh.

By this time, the sun was about to set, but Fayaz Ahmad continued his narration. "Crewel yarns are stiff and can be firmly turned and twisted into shapes. Depending on the intricacy of the design, the embroidery can take up to several weeks to finish. In the Kashmiri craft community, it is said that a person requires sixteen years to master the craft. That’s why small children in the community are trained from the age of eight to ten years."

"You must be enjoying what I say. Aren’t you?" He asked me, attentively listening and cherishing the beautiful pieces lying near his bukhari. I had the pleasure of asking him more about the same, and tirelessly he responded that once the design is finalised, it is drawn on tracing paper by professional tracers called Naquashbands. In Kashmir, the design is then printed on the base fabric using ink.

After the design is imprinted, the fabric is sent to the craftsmen, who start embroidering. In this embroidery, some of the conventional stitches used are stem, chain, and padded satin stitches made with a hook needle, or Aari. The Mughal emperors greatly supported the craft. As a result, it soon gained popularity and became an indigenous art form in Kashmir that was practiced by nobles from both India and Europe. "Thanks for helping me recall the bygone wonders of this art." He concluded, "Please pay my regards to your grandmother, and don’t forget to tell her that you still remember her possessiveness very well."

Waving goodbyebetjili, he tightened his half-strung wooden gate and gave me a gaze of fond remembrance.

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